Following entry was collectively written by Susanna Perrucchini (Italy), Virginia Agostinelli (Italy), Stephanie Bergmen (USA), Federico Garcia Barroso (Spain) and Nina Bernardo (Italy). They lead Spain and Italy tours.
November 28 - Day 5: Ancient Churches of Göreme
Official plan of the day: Surrounded by Cappadocia's other-worldly "fairy chimney" rock formations, we'll begin our day with a walking tour of our village of Mustafapaşa, followed by a drive to the nearby Göreme Open-Air Museum where, in Byzantine times, cave-like churches and monasteries were carved in the cliffs. Some astonishing 1,000-year-old frescoes still remain. This afternoon we'll be treated to a home-prepared, Cappadocian-style lunch, and learn about the centuries-old tradition and artistry of Turkish carpet weaving. We'll have dinner together back in Mustafapaşa tonight.
After five days here, Turkey has begun to reveal itself as a very modern society with an ancient soul. This trip has ignited a reflection on our own countries and our place in history. We all guide in Spain and Italy but coming here and particularly after visiting the Anatolian Civilizations Museum in Ankara we have a much broader perspective on our shared history. The impressions we've formed are of a country still full of contradictions where you can learn about Hittite civilization while sipping a latte at a Starbuck's-like coffee shop. Despite our linguistic inadequacies we've felt welcomed and at ease and are looking forward to making more discoveries.
There is a Turkish proverb, it goes as, "the postman takes a day off and decides to take a walk in the neighborhood". Likewise, with my husband, we used to visit Cappadocia in our private holidays, a place we would normally go when we were hired to lead tours.
After countless visits we realized it was the place we want to spend out lives and we ended up buying three historical mansions next to one another in the village of Mustafapaşa.
Cappadocia is a large region, about the same size as the Yellow Stone National Park and is home to many towns and villages, since we wanted to live in the property, we carefully chose the location. It needed to have all the beauties of Cappadocia including well preserved architecture, had to be close to highlights, and it had to be someplace that has not been invaded by mass travel market, a place still with it's soul and authenticity. We found it in Mustafapaşa, the ancient Sinasos. On top of all, it already had a university! Quite amazing for such a small community / village.
The next step was to find the ideal property. While volcanic stone masonry houses are very charming, they have a downside, humidity. It is their facades that are masonry, in most cases rest of homes is carved out of the bed rock and consists of men made caves. As we had stayed in numerous such properties that were converted into hotels, we knew that there can be a humidity problem in caves. So, we particularly looked for a bedrock and property that didn't have humidity.
All to our luck we found it put to sale by an American army officer! He had been in the US army serving in İncirlik airbase. Like many others visiting Cappadocia, he had fallen in love with the area and bought these properties, but when it was his time to get back to US, he put the property for sale, and we bought it!
Then we started planning semi-retirement in Cappadocia. Well, our retirement plans were postponed after we had two children in the following few years. Meanwhile, the property was sitting idly. Those were the times a very high demand to cave hotels started. Our local friends encouraged us to restore the mansions as a small boutique cave hotel and promised us they would extend a hand in managing. Before we started the restoration we, my husband and I, both agreed on one thing easily. The hotel, was going to be authentic, but main and most important criteria was going to be comfort, but not cheap orientalism.
We built a new infa-structure to the property, but that was not all. I am sure that those of you who traveled in Turkey knows that in older parts of the country, almost in every bathroom, you see a sign saying don't throw TP in the toilett but to the exposed waste bid, as the old and clogged pipes may not be able to carry them away.
This was something that bothered me so much all thru my career as a guide, I had asked Tankut, my husband, that we should do all that it took so that we would not put up such a sign. Well, the engineers told us that we had to change the sewer pipes of the village! What a task it was, we got permits from authorities and started digging the street. We imported the pipes we wanted to use.
I would never forget the look in the faces of the villagers when the 18 wheeler unloaded them, they asked Tankut, "hey bro, what is so different you are going to do with these pipes!?"
Easier said than done, now after 4 years, we proudly say Cappadocia Estates is the most comfortable hotel in all of Cappadocia with stellar staff. It is like an extended family business, staff members are either related to one another or good friends since childhood years.
Cappadocia Estates is categorized as a "Special Class" hotel and licensed by the Ministry of Tourism. The hotel categories, their licensing and category known as "Special Category" is topic of another entry I will write in the upcoming days.
Stay tuned and "like" us so you can easily follow the postings.
Meanwhile watch the short amateur video of Cappadocia Estates:
Official
plan for the day: After breakfast we'll tour the world-class Anatolian
Civilizations Museum, and marvel at its collection of treasures from
Turkey's pre-Roman civilizations. We'll pay our respects at the monumental
Anıt Kabir, Atatürk's Mausoleum, where we'll learn about the revered
founding father of modern Turkey. After lunch, we'll travel to what feels like
another planet — the scenic and historic Cappadocia region — where we'll
have dinner together and sleep in the village of Mustafapaşa (3 nights, group
may be split between two B&Bs). Bus: 6 hrs. Walking: light.
Text
and photo by Jamie Blair Gould. Jamie Blair Gould has been guiding tours
for Rick Steves for many years, he uses his extensive food and wine expertise
to bring Italy tours the knowledge every tour member is craving. He says he
has guided all his life. Jamie has his own company called Papillon Tours.
He has known Steve Smith (co-author of Rick Steves' guidebook to France) for a
very long time. Steve got him involved in the Rick Steves team, so now
every year he guides 12 weeks for Rick and 12 weeks for his own company.
His wife, Nina, also leads tours for Rick.
***Information
from a Rick Steves interview with Jamie.
We returned to the bus and
climbed the summit of a hill in central Ankara to the mausoleum to Turkey's
great modern hero Ataturk, 'Father of the Turks'. Mustafa Kemal was responsible
for converting Turkey from an economically backward Ottoman joke 'the sick man
of Europe' into a secular, prosperous, modern society. He changed everything
from the calendar to measurements, to the western script and vastly improved
literacy rates and female rights. The hero of Gallipoli went from being
Churchill's nemesis to his admired friend.
Watch Rick Steves video of
Central Turkey released in fall 2014 for more insight into Ataturk and modern
Turkey:
As
we arrived in the dark, we had little idea of what lay outside. It was a cold
night and each of our comfortable rooms had a blazing fire glowing in the
hearth. As we unpacked, a warm glass of mulled wine was delivered to the door,
now that's service! Next morning the sun was shining revealing the
beautiful sculptured door and window lintels of our charming hotel 'Villa
Tulip'.
Official
plan for the day: We'll explore Istanbul's more recent past and present today,
beginning with the opulently-Ottoman Topkapı Palace and Harem. Then we'll
visit the New District, with its Art Nouveau façades, restaurants, and trendy
boutiques, all along pedestrian-packed İstiklal Street, where you'll have
free time for lunch on your own. Afterward, we'll board our bus for the drive
to Ankara, Turkey's bustling modern capital city, where we'll sleep (1
night). Bus: 7 hrs. Walking: strenuous.
Watch Rick Steves video of
Istanbul for more insight into Istanbul:
